GenZ and the Fast Fashion Paradox: What Does GenZ’s Addiction to Fast Fashion Mean for Sustainability?
From social justice to climate change, GenZ is known for leading the charge against some of the most pressing issues of our time. Though they may be the new kids on the block, GenZ has strong opinions and even higher expectations regarding the brands they engage with.
GenZers are avid thrifters and secondhand shoppers who are well-informed about many real-life problems. They often hold clothing swaps with their friends and shop upcycled threads to be more sustainable. However, while this younger demographic of shoppers are increasingly wary of the implications of fast fashion, their shopping habits don't always reflect their desire to be more sustainable. Ultra-fast fashion retailers have seen record sales despite the pandemic and economic crisis. GenZ makes up the largest portion of the fast-fashion customer base — seemingly conflicting with their purported values.
Certainly, GenZ isn't the only demographic buying fast/ultra-fast fashion, nor are they responsible for fixing the broken fashion system or undoing the decades of equities and environmental degradation they were born into. However, if younger generations are leading the charge in demanding environmentally sustainable and ethically-produced products, why are ultra-fast fashion retailers continuing to grow and outpace the competition? Are the reports that GenZ values sustainability exaggerated, or does having a new outfit for an #ootd on Instagram or clothing haul for TikTok outweigh this generation's commitment to people and the planet?
We asked our community to weigh in and share their thoughts. 19,352 likes and 888 comments later, the SFF community pointed to these important considerations as to why there's a disconnect between industry reports and consumer shopping habits.
Affordability & Price
For many, the disconnect between their values and purchasing decisions boils down to affordability and that sustainable fashion inevitably costs more. Born between 1997 and 2010, the eldest of GenZ are facing severe financial hardship, having graduated into a labor market that's been devastated by the global pandemic.
While affordable, environmentally sustainable, and ethically-produced fashion exists, the price point of purposefully made clothing can't compete with ultra-fast fashion prices of an $8 dress or $3 t-shirt. Having been born at the height of the fast fashion era, GenZ has been conditioned to expect low prices for clothing despite understanding why an ethically made garment is priced higher. It's hard to pay more when you've grown accustomed to paying less.
However, the affordability argument isn't entirely as black and white as it seems. Two years ago, industry insiders watched curiously to see if the effects of the pandemic would be powerful enough to take down fast fashion. If having affordable clothing options for work and school is what's driving GenZ's fast fashion shopping choices, a global shelter-in-place order would serve a crippling blow to these retailers. Although the pandemic resulted in a decrease in demand, ultra-fast fashion retailer Shein reached an impressive 10 $billion in profit in 2020, indicating that staying home didn’t deter purchases as much as was predicted. While affordability is indeed a barrier for many, there's also a segment of consumers (GenZ and Millennials) who insist they can't afford fast fashion alternatives yet make multiple fast fashion purchases each month or week.
Lack of Size Accessibility
Whether they have the dollars to spend on sustainable fashion or not, many GenZers are forced to shop fast fashion due to limited size availability. Over the past few years, the push for more size-inclusive, sustainable fashion has been answered by a handful of brands expanding their offerings; however, plus sizing is subjective and can vary significantly from brand to brand.
“Limited sizing has and continues to be a barrier for access for plus size people when it comes to fashion, especially those wearing above a 3X,” writer, photographer, and influencer Marielle TerHart told SFF. “I think the problem is more complicated than just sizing availability; the price point for ethical fashion is a significant barrier. Asking GenZ to find and define their sense of style without the trial and error of lower cost pieces adds to that difficulty. Lower cost sustainable options like thrifting are also much harder to find on-trend pieces in larger size ranges. So much of the justification for spending more on ethical fashion is the longevity of those pieces, which can be a drawback for people still finding their style, settling into their bodies, and navigating how they want the world to see them.”
“Being plus-size means so much of your experience in fashion is being firmly told how not to dress.” wrote TerHart in a Vogue article. “When you exist in the niche of sustainable fashion for plus-size bodies, it’s hard to distinguish between what is a style choice and what is your only option.”
While more brands are beginning to offer extended sizes, the truth is that sustainable fashion has a way to go to truly offer an inclusive range of sizes. Moving into plus-size requires more than simply adding additional sizes and requires a commitment to a demographic that is often ignored, disappointed, and let down.
How should sustainable brands approach designing for the plus-size demographic? TerHart joins Teen Vogue Editorial Assistant Aiyana Ishmael and ethical fashion brand, ABLE on the SFF digital MainStage at the 2022 Sustainable Fashion Forum to outline sustainable fashion's blueprint to extended sizes to shed light on how brands can effectively launch a plus-size collection.
Social Media Influence
As a generation, GenZ has grown up alongside social media, influencer culture, and added pressures to fit in, making buying sustainably more complicated than simply a matter of values. Despite being considered a "woke" generation, social media is still king among GenZ — and fast fashion brands dominate those platforms, pairing community and connection with affordable, on-trend, and influencer-endorsed pieces.
Lack of Marketing & Visibility
Despite sustainability becoming a mainstream conversation in recent years, many shoppers still don't know how their purchasing decisions affect people and the planet or where to find fast fashion alternatives. Unlike their fast fashion counterparts, in general, many sustainable fashion brands allocate significantly fewer resources to acquire new customers, establish brand loyalty, and create shopping experiences through social media and influencer marketing, where GenZ spends their time. On the other hand, fast fashion goes to great lengths to make itself visible and meet GenZ's expectations and tastes.
What Does GenZs Addiction to Fast Fashion Mean for Sustainability?
Despite public consumer outcry and demand for sustainability, equality, and diversity, fast-fashion and ultra-fast fashion brands continue to outpace the competition. What's the incentive for brands to clean up their environmental and social impact when consumers still continue to shop with brands despite numerous accusations of supply chain infractions, environmental damage, racially insensitive designs, and plagiarism?
Unpacking the paradox between GenZ's values and their purchasing decisions is a layered conversation revealing the need for a multidimensional approach. To learn more about the mindset and shopping habits GenZ, we’ve highlighted three sessions exploring all things GenZ you won’t want to miss during our 2022 lineup.
Lessons From the Cool Kids
In this exclusive fireside chat, Depop's head of sustainability, Justine Porterie, and Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Versha Sharma sit down to discuss how GenZ is changing the way we shop and influencing the next decade of business practices.
Thinking Outside the Box
Vveave founder Sarah Lamarche, joins GenZ founders and TikTok giants Emma Rogue and Matt Choon discuss GenZ insights on emerging designers and how we can use tech to create circular systems.
