What Happened in Sustainable Fashion News This Week: EU Nears Ban on Unsold Textile Destruction, Bestseller and H&M Group Partner on Bangladeshi Wind Farm, and More!
Welcome to Week/End, your quick-hit guide to this week’s sustainability news at the intersection of fashion, ethics, sustainability, and business. Stay ahead of the curve with Week/End – your compass guide to the latest developments in the fashion industry's pursuit of sustainability.
EU Moves Forward in Pursuit to Ban the Destruction of Unsold Textiles and Footwear
The European Commission reached a provisional agreement as part of its ongoing efforts to pass the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). The ESPR aims to improve product longevity, energy and resource efficiency, repairability, and recyclability. It introduces new requirements for Ecodesign focused on durability, reusability, energy efficiency, and the use of recycled content. Furthermore, the regulation proposes a Digital Product Passport to provide detailed information about products.
One of the most notable aspects of the ESPR, which has garnered considerable media attention, is the proposed ban on the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear. This aligns with similar initiatives in countries like France. If formally adopted, the ban would include certain exemptions for small businesses and a transition period for medium-sized companies while requiring large companies to report on the disposal of unsold consumer products, effectively discouraging this practice.
Currently awaiting formal adoption by the European Parliament and the Council, the ESPR is a critical component of the EU's broader Circular Economy Action Plan under the European Green Deal. This plan aims to reduce the environmental and climate impact of products and transition away from the traditional ‘take-make-use-dispose’ model, marking a significant stride in the EU's commitment to environmental sustainability and circular economy principles.
Bestseller and H&M Group Join Forces in Pioneering Investment for Bangladesh's First Large-Scale Wind Project
At COP28 a significant Bangladesh wind project was unveiled between fashion giants Bestseller, H&M Group, and Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), along with Copenhagen Infrastructure Partners (CIP) and local partner Summit Power. The project aims to generate energy through near-shore wind turbines to supply sustainable power to companies by integrating it into Bangladesh's electricity grid. Slated for potential operation in 2028, the wind farm is poised to be Bangladesh's “first large-scale offshore wind park,” potentially reducing CO2 emissions by 725,000 tonnes annually.
With an expected capacity of about 500 MW, the project supports Bangladesh’s aspirations for energy independence from fossil fuels, job creation, and enhanced energy stability. CIP is set to coordinate with Bangladesh authorities and partners for essential analyses and environmental evaluations. Bestseller has pledged a significant $100 million towards the wind project as part of its investment strategy.
Hugo Boss and Collateral Good Launch €100M Sustainable Fashion Fund
Hugo Boss has partnered with Zurich-based Venture Capital platform Collateral Good to launch a new venture fund dedicated to sustainable fashion. The fund, with a targeted size of €100 million, is poised to support the textile and fashion industries by investing in innovative technologies and solutions that promote environmental sustainability.
The fund plans to invest initial amounts ranging from €1-3 million in 20 to 25 startups. These investments will span various areas, including the recycling of textiles, the development of upcycled raw materials, novel dyeing processes, and enhancing supply chain transparency.
Stella McCartney Debuts Parka Made with Biologically Recycled Polyester at COP28
Stella McCartney, in an innovative venture with Protein Evolution, a U.S.-based biological recycling firm, unveiled a groundbreaking parka at her Sustainable Market event at COP28. Made from a revolutionary polyester, created not from petroleum, but recycled plastic waste and repurposed textile strappings from cargo containers, this jacket showcases the transformative potential of biological recycling,
Protein Evolution's Biopure technology utilizes AI-designed enzymes to break down PET plastics into basic monomers. These are then transformed back into PET chips, similar to those made from virgin polyester, ensuring a consistently high quality that overcomes the typical degradation issues of mechanical recycling. This material, designed for continuous recycling, greatly reduces carbon emissions, cutting CO2 output by about 70% compared to traditional polyester manufacturing.
The COP28 exhibition, however, was about more than just this innovative parka. It also features 15 material innovations, highlighting the possibilities of current and upcoming technologies that could revolutionize the fashion industry. These innovations range from plant-based alternatives to plastic, animal leather, and fur to regenerative alternatives to traditional fibers. Among the showcased products are grape-based leather alternatives, sequins made from tree cellulose by Radiant Matter, bags made using seaweed-based Kelsun yarn, and Mango Materials' transformation of captured methane emissions into plastics.
Advocacy Groups Demand Greater Accountability from Fashion Industry at COP28
At the COP28 climate summit in Dubai, a coalition of advocacy groups, including Fashion Revolution, Stand.earth, Eco-Age, Action Speaks Louder, and Transformers Foundation, has issued a strong call to action for major fashion brands and policymakers. They are urging for increased transparency and accountability in the fashion industry, particularly concerning its environmental and social impacts. The groups demand robust climate targets from fashion brands, developed in consultation with suppliers, and a transparent publication of plans and progress in meeting these targets.
Key focuses include the necessity for living wages for supply chain workers, commitments to decarbonize the entire supply chain, and an action plan to address textile waste and overproduction. The coalition emphasizes the need for systemic change in the fashion industry to tackle poverty, inequality, and environmental degradation. They advocate for legislation to ensure accountability for environmental and human rights abuses throughout the fashion supply chain.
Fashion Rental Platform HURR Secures $10 Million in Funding
British fashion rental platform Hurr, raised $10 million (£7.9 million) in a funding round led by Praetura Ventures, with contributions from Ascension, D4 Ventures, and Octopus Ventures. Hurr, established in 2017, began as a peer-to-peer rental service and has since evolved into a key player in the rental market, partnering with prominent brands like Net-A-Porter. This new investment follows a £5.4 million seed funding round in 2021, which was aimed at expanding the company's operations and white-label offerings.
FDRA Report Reveals Progress and Challenges in Footwear Industry's Sustainability Journey
The Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) released their 2023 Shoe Sustainability Progress Report, shedding light on the current state of sustainability in the footwear industry. The report, based on a survey conducted between October and November 2023, involved professionals across the industry, focusing on materials, development, and sourcing.
Key findings reveal progress in integrating recycled content into shoes without sacrificing performance, though challenges remain in verifying and certifying these materials. Biomaterials are emerging as both a challenge and an opportunity: while they offer sustainable alternatives to traditional plastics and sometimes outperform them, there's variability in their production sustainability and cost considerations. Budget constraints have led to a decrease in biomaterial use, as they are typically more expensive than traditional materials.
Another significant challenge outlined in the report is traceability, due to the complex nature of footwear production that involves numerous materials and components from diverse global sources. The report also highlights a concerning low percentage of companies with a complete map of their material suppliers, particularly relevant in the context of emerging legislation on forced labor, deforestation, and disclosure regulations. Despite these hurdles, there's an increasing trend in industry collaboration to enhance sustainability practices and comply with new labor and environmental regulations, indicating a strong commitment to reducing the industry's environmental footprint and promoting sustainable practices.
