Biden Closes De Minimis Loophole, Nike Rejects Labor Deal, Worldly Launches Scope 3 Emissions Calculator
Welcome to Week/End, your quick-hit guide to this week’s sustainability news at the intersection of fashion, ethics, sustainability, and business. This is your weekly brief to stay informed on key developments driving change in the industry and shaping a more responsible future.
Evrnu announced on social media that its Nucycl® fiber, made from 100% cotton textile waste, is now tree-free and can be recycled up to five times without the use of wood pulp. Meanwhile, PYRATEX® partnered with Recover™ to launch a new line of recycled cotton fabrics, featuring blends of 30-50% Recover™ recycled cotton fiber with organic cotton.
In regulatory news, the Biden administration took steps to close the de minimis shipping loophole, which has allowed companies like Shein and Temu to avoid import duties on low-value goods. The loophole, which permits goods under $800 to enter the U.S. duty-free, has been increasingly exploited, allowing these companies to bypass tariffs and inspections. The move aims to tighten oversight of Chinese imports, improve compliance with new tariffs, and prevent unsafe or illegally produced goods from entering the U.S. market. Stricter enforcement will also target products linked to forced labor and counterfeit goods.
Worldly introduced the Product Impact Calculator, a tool designed to help companies accurately measure their Scope 3 emissions, which can account for up to 90% of a company’s carbon footprint. The tool integrates with the Higg Facility Environmental Module and the Higg Materials Sustainability Index, offering precise data on materials, manufacturing, logistics, and product use.
At Nike’s annual meeting, shareholders voted against a proposal to adopt binding labor agreements for workers in high-risk countries. The proposal, led by the Domini Impact Equity Fund and backed by over 60 investors, called for Nike to address human rights issues like wage theft and forced labor by adopting worker-driven social responsibility models. Despite support from Norway’s sovereign wealth fund, Nike’s ninth-largest shareholder, the proposal was rejected, with the board stating that current audits and the company’s supplier code of conduct are sufficient. However, shareholders did approve CEO John Donahoe’s $29.2 million compensation package for fiscal 2024.
Despite efforts to block forced-labor cotton from entering the U.S., Xinjiang cotton remains present in one in five cotton products in American households, raising calls for stricter enforcement and testing to ensure compliance with the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act. Meanwhile, on a separate front in the fight against labor abuses, LRQA announced a cotton traceability pilot in Pakistan, utilizing isotopic testing to combat child and forced labor while improving transparency in textile supply chains.
At New York Fashion Week, Christian Siriano presented garments made from Circ Lyocell, a recycled fiber derived from polycotton waste, marking the first time this innovative material appeared on the NYFW runway. Circ Lyocell mimics the look and feel of silk, offering a sustainable alternative for luxury fashion. In another notable debut, Boll & Branch collaborated with Prabal Gurung, showcasing ready-to-wear pieces made from 100% organic Summit Supima cotton. This wasn’t the first time Boll & Branch’s sustainable fabric made headlines—it was previously used by Gurung for tennis star Maria Sharapova’s 2024 Met Gala gown.
Coach also highlighted sustainability in its Spring 2025 collection, featuring upcycled materials like post-consumer denim and leather to emphasize the brand’s commitment to reducing waste and promoting eco-friendly practices in high fashion. Additionally, Stella McCartney partnered with PETA for the 'No Leather Ever' campaign at NYFW, advocating for the elimination of animal leather in fashion. The campaign included striking visuals of activists holding signs with the message “No Leather Ever” and encouraged consumers to commit to cruelty-free fashion. McCartney also launched a TikTok filter to engage a wider audience and further promote animal-free alternatives.
In local news, New York Governor Kathy Hochul announced a grant program to support sustainable fashion start-ups and innovations in materials and manufacturing processes. Meanwhile, New York-based brand Steve Madden introduced a recycling program in partnership with Trashie, encouraging customers to recycle used apparel in exchange for a discount on future purchases.
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