What Really Makes a Sustainable Material
In this week’s episode of Crash Course Fashion, Dr. Amanda Parkes, Chief Innovation Officer at PANGAIA, Diana Rosenberg, Sr. Manager, Product Sustainability at GAP Inc, Adam Taubenfligel, Creative Director at Triarchy Denim, and Tara St James, Founder of Re:Source(d) and Vice President of Supply Chain and Sustainability at Another Tomorrow, discuss the nuanced layers of material sustainability with Jasmin Malik Chua, Sourcing Journal Sourcing and Labor Editor.
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Key Takeaways:
There’s no absolutism in sustainability. While there are materials that are “worse” and materials that are “better,” in general, material sustainability is relative to what problems you’re trying to address.
“Sustainability” is a nuanced and layered term that means everything and nothing at the same time. It’s essential for companies and brands to determine their “North Star” which will help them establish what material sustainability means to them.
When thinking through end-of-life solutions, trims (threads, buttons, zippers) need to be considered in addition to material choice because these various components impact a garment's ability to be recycled or biodegrade.
Verifying and auditing material credentials from suppliers and even third-party certification agencies is a crucial step to avoid unintentional greenwashing.Global Life Cycle data shows that fashion’s most significant emissions (on the production side) happen at the material level, so for many brands, the easiest first step on their sustainability journey is to begin by replacing existing materials with sustainable alternatives. However, sustainable material sourcing is no easy task.
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Background
Whether a fiber is better or worse depends on the numerous factors influencing the life cycle of fabric – from the cultivation of the crop through to processing, assembly, transportation, use, and the subsequent disposal of the garment by the consumer. Adding another layer of complexity, just like "sustainability" can mean many different things depending on personal ethos, the same can be said for determining sustainable materials. A sustainable material could refer to it containing no animal byproducts, or it can mean no plastic (not even recycled). It could be defined as less water use, fewer carbon emissions, or fewer chemicals.
How should brands approach material sustainability with so many contradicting and differing perspectives? What makes a sustainable material? What questions should brands ask when determining what materials to use? How should data be used to compare and contrast materials? What is the role of third-party ranking systems and certifications?
